Heater/aircon Resistance Pack

[acecard]

Just fitted the second resistor pack on my 55reg TDi. It's only done 25k from new and I would expect these components to last longer, specially as they have "made in Germany" inscribed on them.

 

I did some resistance checks this time comparing old with new, bearing in mind that the resistance wire in the windings is pretty substantial gauge which would take a lot to go open circuit.

I discovered that it was actually the component I have highlighted which has gone o/c and suspect the same may have happened last time as symptoms were the same. I could have saved

[Mirez]

Can you take a better photo?

[RADIOTWO]

Just fitted the second resistor pack on my 55reg TDi. It's only done 25k from new and I would expect these components to last longer, specially as they have "made in Germany" inscribed on them.

 

I did some resistance checks this time comparing old with new, bearing in mind that the resistance wire in the windings is pretty substantial gauge which would take a lot to go open circuit.

I discovered that it was actually the component I have highlighted which has gone o/c and suspect the same may have happened last time as symptoms were the same. I could have saved

[acecard]

thanks everyone - will take a clearer photo and check any numbers tomorrow

[big_kev]

Its a thermal fuse...easily replacable if you can find the correct one.

 

Examples below.

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=470

[acecard]

Its a thermal fuse...easily replacable if you can find the correct one.

 

Examples below.

 

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=470

Thanks for that. I notice there are a lot of lots of threads around with reference to the common fault of blower not working on some combination of 1, 2 and 3 positions but usually fine on 4 which I assume is hot wired with no resistor in series. Alas, though 4 may work, the resistor pack also stops aircon. It appears to be a common problem on other Fords and I also had an Espace with an identical fault.

As i said earlier, the resistance windings themselves are thick gauge with a hefty current needed to kill them so I suspect that in the vast majority of cases, it will be this cheap fuse. As its easy to check if it has blown, most people could probably save the

[big_kev]

Go get a 240 degree one then !

 

 

I would avoid soldering it ........clue in the word "thermal".

 

Can it be crimped in place ?

Edited May 25, 2010 by big_kev

[RADIOTWO]

Go get a 240 degree one then !

 

 

I would avoid soldering it ........clue in the word "thermal".

 

Can it be crimped in place ?

 

NOT a good idea till you find out what is causing the devices to trip, 240 degrees is very hot and could set on fire well before that trips

 

Radiotwo

[big_kev]

NOT a good idea till you find out what is causing the devices to trip, 240 degrees is very hot and could set on fire well before that trips

 

Radiotwo

 

Nah...a good fire never hurt anyone !

 

Obviously it is the blower motor that is causing the device to trip.

 

The motor may be faulty or it may be just being run flat out with no air con assisted cooling for the resistor pack.

 

240 degrees is not very high for a fuse.

[acecard]

I might add that there was no sign whatever of any overheating on the resistor pack or in its vicinity so I

would tend to think maybe its just a poor quality component judging by the number of people who report it.

I agree that 240 deg is pretty damn hot and I'm not sure I would want that simmering behind the glovebox! At Maplins prices, I could start midrange and work my way up.

Even better, rig up a dashboard display of resistor pack temperature :)

 

The only thing that bothers me a bit is Big Kevs suggestion that the blower motor may be faulty as thy don't come cheap.

 

Just found this comment regarding a Fiesta with the same problem:

If it's like the Mondeos/Focuses et al, it's in the fresh air vent pipe on the passenger side behind the glovebox. The cause of failure is a blocked pollen filter. The blocked filter doesn't allow air to flow over the resistor pack so the thermal fuse blows.

 

Is this a likely cause on the Gal?

Edited May 26, 2010 by acecard

[chrispb123456]

Hi there

may be worth a trip to a local electrician it may just have a dry joint, that needs soldering.

[RADIOTWO]

I might add that there was no sign whatever of any overheating on the resistor pack or in its vicinity so I

would tend to think maybe its just a poor quality component judging by the number of people who report it.

I agree that 240 deg is pretty damn hot and I'm not sure I would want that simmering behind the glovebox! At Maplins prices, I could start midrange and work my way up.

Even better, rig up a dashboard display of resistor pack temperature :lol:

 

The only thing that bothers me a bit is Big Kevs suggestion that the blower motor may be faulty as thy don't come cheap.

 

Just found this comment regarding a Fiesta with the same problem:

If it's like the Mondeos/Focuses et al, it's in the fresh air vent pipe on the passenger side behind the glovebox. The cause of failure is a blocked pollen filter. The blocked filter doesn't allow air to flow over the resistor pack so the thermal fuse blows.

 

Is this a likely cause on the Gal?

 

Hi Again,

 

Don't forget its not just a heat thing !

 

What you could do is solder a couple of bits of wire onto the terminals and fit back in and measure the current !

 

Radiotwo

[acecard]

True but not sure what to expect. My multimeter max is 10 amps. Anyone know the fuse rating for this circuit?